A Beginner's Guide to Semana Santa in Spain
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What Is With Those Hoods?!?
Semana Santa is the holiest week of the year in Spain, beginning in most cities on the Friday before Good Friday (so about 10 days before Easter). These are incredibly religious festivals, with deep reverence and respect. But they are also social occasions, to celebrate fraternity, community, and family.
For the visitor, they are easily accessible, full of food, good vibes, and provocative imagery. They are most famous for their droves of hooded figures, clad in many colors. I've been to over a dozen parades during the 2019 Semana Santa season, across four cities in the South (Toledo, Cordoba, Granada, and Sevilla). Let's take a look at the anatomy of a Semana Santa parade, and peak beneath those hoods and floats.
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Who Runs the Parades?
Each Semana Santa parade is directed by the city itself. Many of these cities have been hosting parades for over a century, but today these are major public affairs requiring police presence, traffic diversions, and massive sanitation and cleanup efforts. So these are municipal events.
They are advertised everywhere. Everywhere. Posters can be found in every shop window and street corner. Bars have posters pledging their allegiance to certain brotherhoods. Each city produces a handy fit-in-your-pocket guide. Sevilla, the biggest I've attended, has two handy phone apps that give you minute-by-minute tracking of events. And with over 60 fraternidades participating in Sevilla every year, the app is a huge help.
The parades themselves always direct through or past the largest cathedral in the city, which coordinates the brotherhoods so that there are no traffic jams. Each night's festivities last 1-5 hours, so it's no small feat. Routes are clearly marked and mapped.
Each fraternidad, or brotherhood, is associated with a church in the city. That is where they will begin their march from, and often where they end up. The floats 'sleep' inside the church outside of parade hours, for the public to see. Thus, a given night will have 3-5 fraternidades with floats, representing those 3-5 churches.
Los Fraternidades or Cofradía
Parades are centered around the brotherhoods which process, but these are not solely male. As I'll describe, there are clear female roles, and also more women in the gender neutral roles.
Fraternidades are large organizations; some in Sevilla number 15,000 strong. They include the Nazarenos/Penitentes, the Doñas, the Costaleros, the Niños, the Bandas, and all the priests, altar people, and officials. Oh, and all the staff - the Servicios. I'll explain all these groups soon, don't worry.
Being in a fraternidad is a commitment of honor. Costaleros and Bandas practice for months to march properly. Doñas fundraise a lot. Servicios and staff fundraise, keep equipment in good order, and assist the church in coordination. This is a commitment.
Every fraternidad has its own color and symbol, which relates to their name. And these are long names:
La Pontificia, Real e Ilustre Hermandad y Archicofradía de Nazarenos del Santísimo Sacramento y de la Pura y Limpia Concepción de la Sentísima Virgen María, del Santísimo Cristo de las Tres Caidas, Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza y San Juan Evangelista
… better known as just “La Esperanza”
So, in a given city, locals will know each brotherhood by their shortened name and colors, as well as their symbol. The colors represent the brotherhood, and are like the colors of a fraternity: each frat has its own colors. So, unlike the KKK, all white is not always used; it’s just one option of many, and not the most common.
Black, white, and cream are common for the main robes. Black, navy, hunter green, burgundy, and purple are the most common for hoods, though there are also occasionally sky blue or white.
You can tell when a fraternidad or cofradía has arrived because you will see (fraternity leaders) carrying (fraternity flags) and bastón (canes with the emblem of the order). Someone will also be carrying a large placard on a pole known as the bocina, which is an ancient symbol of Roma (the SPQR) that symbolizes the allegiance to the Papacy.
But it's about community and pride. Wearing those emblems and colors, like wearing college fraternity letters and colors, is a mark of inclusion. You're one of us, and we are strong, proud, beautiful, and pious. God blesses our good work together. It's a wonderful thing to watch, all these people coming together for their tribe. Locals talk about them with the utmost respect. And they should.
The Scene
Parades have clear routes, and people line up early for the best views. This is a family affair, so the vibe is lighthearted and fun. Toledo was a little more solemn, while both Granada and Cordoba were more relaxed and convivial. Sevilla is epic - serious but joyful, and massive. Some parades in Sevilla are high energy, some are extremely solemn.
Food is common, especially pepitas - sunflower seeds (which is interesting, because usually that term refers to pumpkin seeds, but not in this case). Beer and wine is common. Ice cream is a kid favorite. You typically stop eating right when the floats come by, but otherwise, live it up. And for the amount of beer and wine, I saw no fighting, arguing, or bad vibes. People know what they're there for.
One of my favorite things about Semana Santa are the wax balls. Kids will have a small ball of aluminum foil, and hold it in front of a Nazareno or Dona with a candle, asking for wax. The marcher will pour melted wax onto the ball. Over time, the ball grows, looking like a gobstopper. These can get massive over the years, and are a legitimate source of pride for the children. It's a way to keep the kids engaged during hours of repetition (and keep wax off the streets)!
So who are the many participants in these parades, that make up the fraternidades? Let’s break it down, and start with the one everyone wants to know about… the Nazarenos!
The Showstoppers: The Hooded Nazarenos
The Nazarenos, also called Penitentes, are the hooded figures that are an iconic part of Spain’s Semana Santa. They wear colored robes and tall, pointed hoods which cover the entire face and head, with only eye-holes. Let’s clear up a few things first.
They have nothing to do with the KKK in the US.
The hood is not even the same - the Nazareno’s antifaz (conical hat, sometimes called a capirote) is much taller with a steeper cone. There is no evidence whatsoever that there is any connection between the two; it’s possible someone from the KKK once saw a picture of a Nazareno or something, but there’s no proof of any connection. Nazarenos have been around since at least the 16th century, far predating the KKK.
Second, we have no idea where the pointed hat came from. There’s no scholarly consensus as to where or when the hood developed, nor what it symbolizes. But the name Nazareno comes from Nazareth, the town which figures in the story of Jesus, and refers to those who follow him.
Nazarenos are also called Penitentes - those who seek penance. And this is where we can understand the hood - the face of the wearer is to be hidden, as they are ashamed of their sin. They carry candles or crucifixes, and walk in shame and repentance, redeemed by the sacrifice of the Christ.
Nazarenos used to be entirely male, but that has changed dramatically in the past thirty years. Today, the ratio seems closer to 60/40, still more male than female. All participate in asking for forgiveness, and are recognized as part of the tribe.
Nazarenos can be recognized by the colors of their outfits, and the symbols they wear. The symbols appear on the chest or arm of the Nazareno, on the canes carried by leaders, on the crucifixes, and on the medallions worn by Nazarenos, Doñas, and Niños. Speaking of…
The Elegance: The Doñas
While the Penitentes are both genders, the Doñas is an exclusively female role, and do not appear in every parade (though most). They carry candles, and wear all black. They are the mourners of Christ, and show sorrow along with the Mother Mary. They demonstrate a sense of solemnity, creating a funerary feeling.
The dress-code is actually very strict: black, form-fitting dresses that cover the chest and and arms (though the arms can be covered in a blazer or black lace). Dresses must be knee-length, no shorter or longer. Teenaged and younger girls can wear looser dresses, but women of sexual age seem to always wear form-fitting dresses, and many are very attractive. The hair is worn up, backed by a peinita and mantilla (ornate comb and black lace veil). The face is done beautifully, and jewelry is usually subtle or religious. Many carry rosaries.
These beautiful women are the mourners of the Christ, and walk behind the Nazarenos or floats. They are dramatic and breathtaking, and exude sorrow and grace. They are distinctly Spanish (the mantilla and peinita are similar to those of a flamenco dancer and other iconic Spanish women), and are elegance personified.
The Cuteness: The Niños
Along with the Penitentes and the Doñas are the young children who walk in the parade. They sometimes wear the clothes of altar boys/girls, or sometimes wear the same robes as the Nazarenos, but because they are not yet expected to be ashamed of their sinfulness, they do not wear hoods. They range in age from about 6-12, and are absolutely adorable.
Many carry baskets of candy or treats to hand out to kids along the route. They also often carry water bottles, especially when it is warm; these are for themselves, or to give to overheated Penitentes (and, with some of those hoods being velvet, the heat is real). Older ones may carry lighters to relight candles for the Penitentes, who have some limited mobility/visibility.
Niños also carry the cartas, or small cards which can fit in a pocket or wallet. These are also carried by Doñas, Nazarenos, and sometimes Servicios, and feature images of the Christ or Madonna. They usually include the name of the Fraternidad, and kids along the route collect them like baseball cards. Niños love handing them out to their schoolmates.
The Soundtrack: The Bandas
Now, not all parades have bandas, but almost all do. The exception was the parade I attended with the El Silencio Fraternidad in Sevilla on Thursday Night (the Madrugá), and you can guess from their name that they were an usually quiet bunch of 1400 strong Nazarenos. But all other parades have bandas, and me tell you, these guys (and ladies!) can PLAY.
Part of what makes standing in line for hours watching hooded dudes walk in long strings tolerable is outstanding marching band music. Outstanding. These bandas begin practicing months in advance, and are brothers/sisters of the fraternity drawn from the congregation - these are not professionals, army bands, or high school/college bands. These are locals who do it for the love of Christ.
And we are talking phenomenal music. Flawless drumming. Screaming trumpets. Sometimes mournful, sometimes jubilant. At times, I was drawn to tears. Other times, I was bopping along. Always, I was pulled back to my marching band days and it was amazing. They march for four hours at each go, and I never heard a drumstick out of place.
The Assistants: Servicios
The Servicios, or servicefolk, are the thankless jobs. Some carry water (aguaó), some provide security or crowd control, some just handle the Niños. Many work behind the scenes, known as albacea, to keep the floats in good order and to repair the Penitentes’ outfits. There are also camareras, women chosen by the brotherhood specifically to take care of the cloak and flowers of the Virgin on her float.
The worst job, in my opinion, are the servicios who have to push these carts behind the processions. The carts carry spare candles, extra drumsticks, water, ladders for climbing up to floats that have problems, and other gear. These carts are heavy, and the servicios who push them have to push them on bumpy roads covered with melted wax.
They don’t get to wear costumes, and no one takes pics of them. But without them, there’d be no parade.
The Centerpieces: The Pasos (Floats)
Each fraternidad will carry two floats (though occasionally one of just Jesus, or three, with Jesus-Mary-Jesus), and usually in about the same order.
Nazarenos (including those carrying the standards of the fraternidad)
Priests (acólitos, incensarios, etc)
Float of Jesus (El Señor)
Banda
Doñas
More Nazarenos
Priests (acólitos, incensarios, etc)
Float of Mary
Banda
Servicios
So there are always two floats. The first is what I will call “Jesus in an Action Scene.” This is a scene related to the life of adult Jesus. Sometimes it’s Jesus getting assaulted by Romans. Sometimes it’s Jesus carrying the cross. Sometimes it’s Jesus crucified. Sometimes it’s Jesus, bound and weeping. On Sunday morning, it was Jesus resurrected.
But these are vivid, lifelike scenes that evoke weeping and crossing from the audience. As they pass, people show reverence toward El Señor. This is, most definitely, a religious festival of great spiritual importance.
The second float is always a weeping Mother Mary/Madonna. She is always under a manto (canopy) that is richly embroidered, and in front of her is a huge series of lit candles that almost look like a wall of fire. She always has a halo and a soft, loving face.
Her gown is ornate, and extends out the back of the float, sometimes all the way to the ground. She is stunningly beautiful, and somewhat hidden. Her glory is great. Women in particular were often drawn to tears as she passed.
Jesus always came first, his weeping mother of mercy behind him.
In my stupidity, I assumed these floats were on wheels, or motorized, or carried by the two Nazarenos who are in front, holding handles like a palanquin. But these floats weigh thousands of pounds. I was naive.
The floats are carried by Costaleros.
The Foot Soldiers: The Costaleros
Underneath each float are anywhere from 18-32 Costaleros, or ‘float-carriers.’ This job is not easy. Costaleros get into formations under the float and hoist it up on their shoulders, in unison, and then march in little baby steps along the route.
Costaleros carry the float about a block and a half or so (a distance known as a chicotá), then all set it down in unison, based on the tapping of a capataz (Costalero boss) using a small silver/gold device attached to the back of the float. The capataz’s assistant (contraguía) ensures the Costaleros can communicate and be taken care of. The Costaleros rest briefly, then lift it up again, once again based on the tapping of that silver/gold device on the float. Whenever a float is hoisted back up, it is lifted with a bounce, and the crowd cheers and applauds the Costaleros. Then they march on.
About every half an hour or so, the Costaleros swap out with other Costaleros from the Fraternidad. It’s that exhausting. So they’ll work in two or three shifts. When it’s not their shift, Costaleros wander around, usually drinking water/beer, smoking, and eating. They are social and happy, not somber - after all, they are not Penitentes.
I was able to interview some Costaleros, and learned that they begin practicing together in mid-January, about four hours at a time every few days. They carry cement blocks on their shoulders to practice, and work on marching while in a squat. It is painful. It requires endurance, teamwork, and desire. It’s a commitment, and something to be proud of.
You can recognize a Costalero because they will usually be wearing a burlap fabric on their head (for men) or braids (for women) and a shirt with the symbol of the Fraternidad. They often have sweatshirts and braces tied around their lower backs to provide support, and the sweatshirts will have the name/symbol of the brotherhood. They hang out in packs, and support each other.
In the past, Costaleros were always men. And in Toledo and Cordoba, they were always men as far as I ever saw. But when I hit Granada and Sevilla, I began seeing female Costaleros. In fact, in Granada in particular, there were floats carried entirely by women. Granada’s female Costaleros were very proud of this fact.
Beyond all these groups were other figures which appeared on occasion: priests, standard bearers, those who carried incensors (this made for some heavy smells, be warned), army men, or local political leaders affiliated with certain Fraternidades. But now you have a grasp on the main players, and the important aspects of the parades.
Dr. C’s Conclusions
I’ll be honest - it is very easy to attend Semana Santa. Compared to other religious festivals, Semana Santa is a delightful mix of heavily pious and happy-go-lucky community party. You can come and go to the parades as you please (other than some massive, slow moving crowds), and kids are very welcome. Everyone is happy, even while in mourning, and people are social and friendly.
The symbolism is at times mysterious, at other times obvious. The floats are dramatic, and the Nazarenos in their hoods are just plain unique and memorable. The Doñas are breathtaking. From the Niños to the kids with their wax balls, everyone has something to do. The music is A+. And the strength and determination of the Costaleros makes you feel proud everytime they lift a float. I can only imagine what it must feel like to be a part of a Fraternidad, to be a part of something so marvellous.
And that’s what Semana Santa is - a festival of pride and repentance. Jesus and Mary are venerated, and this is a significant part of the parade. The feelings of sorrow and redemption are palpable. But this is also about community building, from the fraternidad to each city itself. It’s a communal celebration at its core. Rather than each church having its own Easter within its ornate walls, the ornate imagery is brought out, and each church (and Fraternidad) has its time in the spotlight.
Semana Santa in Spain might just be the best religious festival I’ve been to yet. And now that you’ve gotten to peak under the hoods (and under the floats), I hope you’ll find your way here next year!